Before I go for a reward surf. I am listening to this, in order to keep myself GLUED to the seat.
For many reasons – but in particular for what he has to say about the whole Nazare big wave surfing load-of-sexist-shit. And also, incidentally, because he’s sitting in front of a FINE collection of books as he says it (Joyce Carol Oates watching over his left shoulder).
I’ve just pledged on Pozible to help RealSurf, and if you’re a fan of the website you might want to do the same. (Haven’t seen it before? Check it out. It’s refreshingly uncorporate and runs on the sweat of passionate contributors). For me, it’s been a touchstone for years, and every time I check in and see the header quote from Jack Norris – “Stay happy and you’ll be perfectly fine” – I feel good (if you’re someone who uses the site, I bet you know exactly what I mean).
They’ve only got 9 days to go, and they are soooooo close to reaching target.
Anyway, enough from me. I’ll let Mr Don Norris tell you about their plans: