Where I live, peeps be all cool and humble when they make the daily surf report by @surfphotosofyou … but not me! It is THE thrill of my existence. If you don't already subscribe, sign up – https://www.surfphotosofyou.com.au – you get pictures of northern beaches heaven delivered to your inbox daily. Also, don't worry, the standard of surfing featured is much higher than my frothing. Mr SPOY just chucked me in there because he has a generous heart and a sense of humour :) #northernbeaches #surfing #dailysurfreport #surfphotography #surfer #secretspots #surfphotos #oceans #oceanphotography #womenwhosurf
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For the last 20 minutes I have listened to this man, Brendan Donohue, speak with passion and purpose about the work that the Surfrider Foundation do, and how they need numbers. Only problem is I'm already a member and my feet are burning. So please join and make Brendan happy. It's only 50 cents a week. https://www.surfrider.org.au/ @surfrideraus #oceanlove #oceanlover #stopplastics #northernbeaches #surfriderfoundation #surfrider #surfer #surfing #cleanwaves #cleanbeaches #sea
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This is what White Horses has to say about this issue:
We’re stoked to present this very special issue of White Horses, completely dedicated to, and created by, female surfers.
We believe this is the best publication about women’s surfing ever put together.
I agree. And not just because I’m in it. What I love is that it features women and girls from all walks of life talking about the ocean and surfing. Some of them I even know (shout out to Amy Kotch :). And it’s presented in White Horses‘ usual visually stunning, non-wanky style. Don’t forget too that White Horses was the first magazine to feature Steph Gilmore on the cover, even though by the time that came around she’d already been World Champ multiple times. While most of the surf media is so cutting edge they’re out in space sans oxygen, I love White Horses because it moves at a different pace and is so inclusive.
Anyway, thanks to my good friend Gary from Mug of Sunshine, I am in the issue talking about surfing and writing and where the two crossover.
But like I said, just get it because it’s beautiful. You don’t have to be a surfer either. Anyone who loves the sea will enjoy it.
1. We just finished the proofread of SUMMER SKIN. I say ‘we’ because, of course, it’s not just me doing it – that would be dreadful; so many msistakes would slip through unnoticed. I should feel a bit emotional about it being done, because it’s one step closer to waving bye-bye to the characters, and saying, ‘Hello, world, list for me the ways in which I’ve failed.’ But for the first time ever, it doesn’t really feel like that – possibly because this book has had such a looooong gestation. I really, really want to post a pic of the cover, but I’m going to desist. Every time I do that in other places (like Facebook, where it’s socially acceptable to skite) nice people say things like, ‘I must buy a copy’. And I have to say, ‘Okay, but can you just hold that thought for five months?’ So, instead, here’s a glimpse of the advanced reading version looking coy:
2. I’ve also finished an article for an upcoming edition of WHITE HORSES magazine talking about my surfing life and my writing life and the crossovers between the two. For those of you who haven’t encountered it before, WHITE HORSES is devoted to ‘stories about the sea’. It prides itself on being very different to your typical surf mag. I’ve followed it with interest because my good friend Gary at Mug of Sunshine writes for the mag. Also because they were the first surf mag to feature Steph Gilmore on the cover – which just amazed me – the fact it was her first, I mean, in view of the fact she’s won 6 world championships and has a style that is universally admired. It seemed fitting, though, that it was WHITE HORSES who did it, as they tend toward an inclusiveness you don’t always pick up on in other surf media.
Anyway, the reason I’m so excited is that the issue I’ll be in is focused solely on women and girls in the waves. I would have supported it no matter what. The fact I’ll be in it is icing on the cake. (I’ll post more on this when it’s out).
3. I attended the launch of the Stella Schools Program in Sydney. Click on the link for more info. It was a great night. Room full of cool people who care about the same thing. Woman are half the world. Aside from everywhere else in life, we want to see women in all their diversity represented in books and on screens.
Okay. Whatever you’re up to, I hope it’s giving back to you.
Just because it’s Friday and you might need a little ‘traffic outbrain’. I actually don’t even know what that means, I just notice it comes up in the address bar when you click on a ‘junk food for your mind’ type news story instead of a serious news story.
First this: My brother-in-law alerted me to it. I chose to watch it on my phone in bed at 1.30am when I couldn’t sleep (with the sound turned down, so I wouldn’t wake up everybody else in the house, which made it even creepier).
And this – I have been night surfing, courtesy of full moons and foolhardiness (feeding time, anyone?) but now what I really want is my own wave pool. How beautiful:
And then this. This made me laugh. I think because I grew up riding motorbikes. The sheer irreverence is kind of glorious:
If you love the ocean, I hope you Take 3 for the Sea every time you’re down at the beach. If you haven’t heard of that before, it’s simple: pick up three pieces of rubbish each time you leave. But don’t just stop there. If you’re not already aware of their activities: the Surfrider Foundation have a new website up. It’s very easy and inexpensive to become a member, and to show your support. To me, one of their most important initiatives is Rise Above Plastics. I am trying really hard to do this in my own life, and Surfrider have compiled a great list that gives me a place to start:
Ten Ways To Rise Above Plastics
Here are ten easy things you can do to reduce your ‘plastic footprint’ and help keep plastics out of the marine environment:
Nearly put an exclamation mark in that title because as we all know I don’t get out much and this is an Upcoming Event!
On Thursday evening, 16th April, I’ll be at the NSW Writers’ Centre talking about writing, specifically, writing about water, along with Pip Newling and Ian Hoskins, with the event being chaired by Lex Hirst.
I’ll share more details closer to the date, but if you want to know more in the meantime, please check out the NSW Writers’ Centre’s page here.
Summer here finished with a violent thunderstorm, like the world cracked open as Autumn was born. Surfing wise, I love all the seasons (okay, maybe not Spring so much – the winds drive me berko). Each is unique, and has its own rhythms, but I always feel like Autumn gives the golden moments. I busted the plugs on my Vampirate board (Rainbow 5’8, for the surfers out there – should have gone the 5’6 but was feeling lazy; I usually ride it as a quad) and rediscovered the joys of rocker thanks to my Psyllakis (5’10 Gypsy). We’ve had a great run of swell, water temps at 23 degrees, an ocean that’s clear and green and veined by reflection, and I’m in love with the world. Everybody down at my local is happy, and I’m in love with them, too, because I sometimes wonder how I’d be without them to laugh with. Keeps it in perspective.
Anyway, some snaps for you (that’s me and Miss 8 doing a bit of underwater exploring above). Hope you’ve had a chance to get outside.