1 fairy penguin, 4 dolphins, 12 good waves, followed by 2 croissants and a play in the sand with my 4 year old. 1 good song on the drive home.
Banks, in this case, referring to the sand formations that cause waves to break – not the institutions; they have governments making sure they don’t disappear. We haven’t had any banks around here for … um … I don’t know, not since some big storm swells gobbled them up weeks ago. Since then, every day’s been a shorebreak party, which was fun for a while – fast, one-turn waves, no paddle, the line-up spread out … But it only works when there’s swell. Now there’s no swell.
So. I bought myself a new board. Thank you Powerlinez (great store, great advice – in case you happen to be northern beaches based). It’s another Psillakis. My last board was a Psillakis, too, but this one’s an inch shorter: 5.10 x 18.7/8 x 2.1/4 (the Gypsy model). I like the extra width for paddling, but it’s still zingy. My roofing guy also bought a Psillakis, and he loved his, too, so two out of two people surveyed say ‘thumbs up’. And Psillakis hand shapes. Call me old fashioned, but I like the idea of a board being hand shaped. There’s an energy transfer there somewhere …
Then, I gave my girls some Posca pens. They are very young. They have a lot of energy. They were listening to Macklemore. They did one side; I did the other (poems, quotes, lyrics to contemplate if I’m feeling that way inclined). I like theirs the best.