I feel the need to sign off on 2009. So here goes…
This is a shout out to everyone who has had things to say about Raw Blue – thank you. And thank you to all the writers, booksellers, teachers and librarians who have been so generous this year, making me feel so welcome.
And big love to readers.
Bit slow in posting this – we’ve been away to Nelson Bay, crammed into a house with good friends and their beautiful kids. Fantastic times – lots of surfing, seafood and Halloween. Birubi was absolutely enormous, and One Mile Beach was summer crumbly. Took my 2 year old on a surfboard for the first time and that right there is one of my golden moments….
Finally, I’ll be going on a surf camp at Surfing Australia’s high performance centre at Casuarina Beach very soon, so I’ll be sure to post a bit more on that. While it’s called the High Performance Centre, they’re open to all sorts, which is how I get to sneak in. I’m ridiculously excited about this….
Standing there, having a look at it, trying to convince myself that I really do like the cold, when around fifteen or so dolphins turned up – right in the middle of the break, surging and playing around the surfers.
By the time I went back for my camera they’d moved on. Still, pretty special to see it and everybody coming in had big grins.
Let’s take a second to remember the Autumn that was.
Summer’s over, winter’s coming, but right now is the in-between, the change. I’ve always loved this time of year the most, always loved Easter more than Christmas. It’s because of surfing. The swell’s mixed, which means you still get runs of easterly swell, not like winter where it’s usually coming from the south all the time. And there’s not much wind about, or if there is it’s often offshore. The ocean’s still warm but the sand is chilled. The water loses the emerald green of summer and starts to keep secrets, turning a deep, dark sapphire blue.
Most of all I love the light. I love how everything is golden, precious. Some days it makes things so beautiful it hurts.
(From Raw Blue)